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Come with me as I travel through the real places of my life and into the steep, switch-back roads of the imagination. Join me. You'll be good company and your thoughts are welcome.

Friday, February 28, 2014

San Francisco, What I Love


Revitalized Coastal Plantings at Crissy Field
I love winter in San Francisco. No snow, no ice, just color and a fine quality of light.  In January, the average high temperature is 57 degrees, and while wind and fog always bring a chill to the air, a good sunny day and light layers of clothing make walking around in the city fresh and pleasant. Freezing is rarely a problem, so flowers are always blooming somewhere.

Perennial Fuchsia climbing on a private home.
I love the sparkle on the blue water when I climb the hills and look back down at the bay and if there is a blanket of heavy white fog over the Headlands behind the bridge, all the better. The walk itself is invigorating (uphill-downhill and steep) which helps if you intend to try a few great restaurants.

The neighborhoods and districts have their unique personalities, some with streets so sharply angled that the sidewalks are stairs. I may have favorites, but I love to visit them all.

Presidio Heights, homes with window views of the bay and Marin County

I love the way the city has transformed the many old military facilities into housing, businesses and parks and restored and improved their natural areas and wild-life habitat. The revitalized Marina District between the Presidio and Fort Mason is a beautiful open area everyone can enjoy.

Beach Entry at Crissy Field
Crissy Field below the Presidio
Turn away from the Golden Gate Bridge and swing around onto Baker Street and toward the Palace of Fine Arts. This arts and sciences complex was built for the 1916 Worlds Fair. Adjacent, be sure to find The Exploratorium, a twenty-first century learning laboratory.

Lake and Fountain at the Palace of Fine Arts built for the 1916 World's Fair

Lake at the Palace of Fine Arts with View of the Colonnade of Greek Pillars

Swans Dancing


Lovely Home Opposite the Palace of Fine Arts on Baker Street
Cow Hollow, the neighborhood above the Marina District and down from Presidio and Pacific Heights is right in the center of things. It caters to some of the most creative and successful folks you can find anywhere, mostly young professionals including some who commute daily to Silicon Valley in unmarked double-decker buses called by locals, "Darth Vader buses." Ordinary incomes don't buy the homes in these neighborhoods, but I love to admire them and enjoy their surrounding streets.
Presidio Heights

Homes are grand and well cared-for.

I love to stay in the thick of things. The Union Street Inn with its many steps and outstanding breakfasts has just six Edwardian-style rooms. Beyond the sitting room is a lovely patio and garden as well as a separate cottage. The homey feel, tasty food, and helpful owners make this place tops in San Francisco. It's fun to walk down to Lucca Delicatessen and buy a first-rate take-out meal for lunch in the garden.

Cottage at Union Street Inn

Cottage Garden
I love the Bay Area food! Fresh farm to table produce is available all over the city from surrounding farmlands, featured on the menus in all the best restaurants and sold in the local markets. This makes a stroll through a neighborhood market a feast for the senses. It all looks beautiful, smells divine, tastes delicious and just makes you feel good. Plate presentation as an art started here!

Asparagus Salad at FISH. in Sausalito across the bay.
I love the seafood, cooked or not. You can find any type of preparation from American to Zulu. For me this year, tops was a Dungeness Crab cocktail, raw oysters, and yes also the sushi at the The Swan Oyster Depot on Polk Street! This old seafood market has a lunch counter where you get seafood right off the boats prepared simply. Nothing better. For a more upscale experience, the whole roasted fish with fresh vegetables at Kokkari on Jackson Street and the large Cioppino at Tadich Grill on California Street were outstanding as were the Sand Dabs and Truffles (in season) at Capannina. At a new restaurant (to me) in Cow Hollow, Bistro Aix on Steiner Street, I had an excellent "nuevo" rendition of grilled calamari. Finally, fish tacos are a must. Try Pacific Catch on Chestnut St.  
Fish Tacos and Salad at Pacific Catch in Cow Hollow
I love to find a tiny restaurant tucked into a corner of an urban neighborhood. On the outside, it's nothing special, but on the inside, there's great food like a Champagne brunch with Eggs Benedict at the Butler and the Chef in the South Park neighborhood. They call this area "ground zero" for the dot.com era because it was home to many start-up companies back in the 1990's.

The Butler and the Chef authentic French restaurant in South Park
Eggs Benedict at The Butler and the Chef

Quiet January Sunday in South Park


Local Children as the Parading Dragon
I love Chinatown. In all the world, San Francisco has the largest Asian community outside of Asia. A flower show and parades of paper dragons fill the streets of Chinatown leading up to the Chinese New Year.

This part of town is ripe with bold colors and spicy aromas. Storefronts bear names like The Lucky Dragon or The Golden Wok.





When they are not celebrating and the crowds subside, I love to check out what the street vendors have for sale (amazing!) and browse the stores to learn about woks, jade, ginseng, tea and each time, something entirely new to me!

The best way to learn is to book a tour through All About Chinatown. Some favorite stops on the tour are the Fortune Cookie Factory and The Herbal Pharmacy.



I love the big fabrics and sewing notions stores like Britex Fabrics on Geary Street. I can spend hours filling my creative well in their four stories of texture, color and sheen: inspiring.  

I love to eavesdrop around clothing designers and costumers as they choose fabrics and trims for their current project.  

Each visit, I discover new stores like Pincushion Sew and Craft  on Union Street and new to me, The Ribbonerie on Sacramento.

Eventually, I am satiated by the city and have to get out on the water or into more open country. So, by ferry, car, boat, bicycle, bus or train, what's to do out there? 

Well there's the bay and the Pacific Ocean and grand places beyond. Let me rest a bit and I'll tell you what I love about the coast, the Marin Headlands and the wine country. Coming soon.... 

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